Control System

Total: 1578.1 hours
Control System: 26.4 hours

Control system went easy. No issues with the control system itself. And this includes the Dynon A/P servo. However, I did have a minor issue with the control system interfering with a fuel hose. This was easily fixed by loosening the B-Nuts on the flexible fuel hose and reorienting it so that the forward control column cleared the hose on one side. No problem.

see update post here: Control System Interference

Cabin-side Fuel System

Total Hours: 1529.1 hours
Cabin side fuel system:  24.8 hours

The fuel system on the cabin side is composed of fuel hoses from the wing tanks to the fuel valve to the fuel filter to the fuel pump to the fuel transducer to the firewall. I had TS Flightline make hoses for me (including a stainless hard line between the pump and the transducer). The filter and pump I got from Airflow Performance. And the transducer is the FT-60 “Red Cube” from Electronics International.

Everything is in the stock positions. Conveniently, the offset in the stock mounting brackets allow for alignment of the Airflow Performance filter and pump to be just about perfect. All I did was add a second bracket for each. As mentioned, there is a hard line hose between the pump and the transducer. Between the filter and the pump is a Phenix coupler. Everything else is a flexible stainless steel hose I got from TS Flightline after mocking up the system with rubber hoses in order to get the proper hose lengths. The rubber hoses were super cheap from an auto parts store.

The valve is from Andair. I just didn’t like the stock valve at all and the Andair valve is very popular among RV10 builders so I decided to go that route also. The installation was custom. It’s positioned in the stock location, but I had to fabricate a bracket for it. I did this by fitting the valve to some scrap aluminum, fitting the new bracket to the original bracket. Then cutting out the center of the original bracket. Then riveting the new bracket to the sides of the original bracket. The valve handle is then fit to the tunnel top panel.

The only complaint is that it’s going to be a real hassle to put the tunnel top panel on every time it comes off. This is because the valve handle is mounted to the tunnel top panel and is connected to the valve itself by way of an extension arm. The extension arm (in my case) is pinned to the bottom of the valve handle (and to the top panel) while the bottom of the extension slides snugly and fully into the valve itself. To take the top panel off you unscrew the side screws and lift. No problem. But putting it back on will be a royal pain because the extension arm must slide into the valve as the panel top goes down. The only way to do this with one person is to unscrew the valve handle/lever (the actual red thing you move) with the weird screw on top of it. This releases the spindle holding the extension arm. Then the arm can be slid into the valve and the panel top screwed into place. Replacing the valve handle is then easily screwed back into the spindle.  With two people, the right side tunnel panel will have to be removed and one person will have to guide the extension arm into place while the other person slowly lowers the panel top onto the tunnel. Annoying any way you slice it. Because the top mount must be aligned to the valve itself, I believe this is the best way to handle this apart from fabricating a much more complex bracket or splitting the tunnel top: two things I just don’t want to do. I will carry the correct Allen wrench in the airplane at all times in case the tunnel top needs to come off while I’m away from home.

(added roll-pin to valve/extension. Click here.)